Publication [J.23]
Samaras, A.G. and Karambas, Th.V. (2024). Simulating erosive and accretive conditions in the swash: Applications of a nonlinear wave and morphology evolution model. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 12 (1), 140, DOI. (PDF)
numerical modelling •• coastal morphology •• Boussinesq equations •• erosion/accretion •• swash
Abstract
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and non-breaking waves. Regarding sediment transport, the model builds on previous research by the authors and incorporates the latest update of a well-founded sediment transport formula. The wave and morphology evolution model is validated against two sets of experiments on beach profile change and is afterwards used to test the performance of a widely-adopted erosion/accretion criterion. The innovation of this work is the validation of a new Boussinesq-type morphology model under both erosive and accretive conditions at the foreshore (accretion is rarely examined in similar studies), which the model reproduces very well without modification of the empirical coefficients of the sediment transport formula used; furthermore, the model confirms the empirical erosion/accretion criterion even for conditions beyond the ones it was developed for and without imposing any model constraints. The presented set of applications highlights model capabilities in simulating swash morphodynamics, as well as its suitability for coastal erosion mitigation and beach restoration design.
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and non-breaking waves. Regarding sediment transport, the model builds on previous research by the authors and incorporates the latest update of a well-founded sediment transport formula. The wave and morphology evolution model is validated against two sets of experiments on beach profile change and is afterwards used to test the performance of a widely-adopted erosion/accretion criterion. The innovation of this work is the validation of a new Boussinesq-type morphology model under both erosive and accretive conditions at the foreshore (accretion is rarely examined in similar studies), which the model reproduces very well without modification of the empirical coefficients of the sediment transport formula used; furthermore, the model confirms the empirical erosion/accretion criterion even for conditions beyond the ones it was developed for and without imposing any model constraints. The presented set of applications highlights model capabilities in simulating swash morphodynamics, as well as its suitability for coastal erosion mitigation and beach restoration design.
Works that reference this work
[01] Chatzipavlis, A., Chatzistratis, D., Trygonis, V., Monioudi, I., Andreadis, O., Psarros, F. and Velegrakis, A.F. (2024). Longshore variability of swash motion in a dissipative touristic beach from high-frequency video imagery. Proc. of the 5th International Congress on Applied Ichthyology, Oceanography & Aquatic Environment - HydroMediT 2024, Mytilene, Greece, May 30 to June 02, 2024, pp.352-356, ISBN: 978-618-80242-6-7, ISSN: 2529-1246, Link.
[01] Chatzipavlis, A., Chatzistratis, D., Trygonis, V., Monioudi, I., Andreadis, O., Psarros, F. and Velegrakis, A.F. (2024). Longshore variability of swash motion in a dissipative touristic beach from high-frequency video imagery. Proc. of the 5th International Congress on Applied Ichthyology, Oceanography & Aquatic Environment - HydroMediT 2024, Mytilene, Greece, May 30 to June 02, 2024, pp.352-356, ISBN: 978-618-80242-6-7, ISSN: 2529-1246, Link.
Author's works that reference this work
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